What irritates Stephen Clarke is that so little happens in Paris in August
I know lots of people who say that they love to be in Paris in August, when all the Parisians are away
But
Stephen Clarke does not agree:
what irritates me is that so little happens in Paris in August.
Of course everyone needs their holiday, but it gets tough setting up meetings, for example. Lots of Parisian meetings happen in cafés, and … many of
these are closed in summer
… It’s the same buying bread. There are very strict rules about when a boulangerie
can close for its annual holidays. The baker has to belong to one of
two groups, according to when he or she (almost always he) wants to
close: either 1-31 July or 1-31 August. When a shop closes, it has to
give the addresses of the two nearest boulangeries that are still open.
… So it’s all well organized, and fresh bread is always available by law, but if your local boulangerie
closes and you’re used to strolling lazily across the road in the
mornings to buy fresh bread, and now you have to go all of 200 metres
further to a boulangerie that you don’t particularly like because their pain aux raisins
are too doughy (it can happen), it feels to the average Parisian as if
you’ve been told to crawl to Lourdes on your hands and knees as penance
for a sin – maybe the sin of staying in Paris when you ought to be on
holiday.
So yes, we Parisians are a spoilt bunch, but when you’re used to having a café and a boulangerie
within yards of your front door, it’s hard to adapt. I’m sure the same
is true for polar explorers: give them easy access to shops and
restaurants and they’ll go insane with claustrophobia.
Another problem with Paris in August is that the weekly events guides
slim down to supermodel thinness.
… Paris, I think, needs a summer festival.
… I
fear, though, that theatres, music venues and café back rooms will all
be subject to city rules about annual closure; that sound engineers,
stage managers and actors will all want their annual holiday; and that
everyone would go on strike anyway, as they threatened to do this year
at Avignon.
So maybe Paris is doomed to be bereft of culture every summer. Except
of course for the art museums, where you can still see some of the
greatest collections in the world. But then again, art shows aren’t
hindered by annual holidays, because all the artists concerned are on an
eternal vacation in the afterlife. Though I bet that if they want to
change from heaven to hell one summer, they have to ask for permission.