The weirdest souvenirs in Paris's new official merchandise shop have to be the Parisian scented candles
The French, as we all know, are an inventive people Paris has just found a new way to earn some much-needed money for its anti-pollution campaign
writes
Stephen Clarke:
a shop selling official merchandise.
The new boutique at 29 rue de Rivoli,
in the Hôtel de Ville building, is selling a selection of knick-knacks
with “Paris” written on them, as well as some bulky but
authentic-looking souvenirs that will help you create your own corner of
the French capital in your back garden. Sadly, not a full-size version
of the Eiffel Tower – because an accurate scale model, with the
staircases, lifts and intricate ironwork would make a great garden
feature, especially if you could get it to light up and flicker like the
real one does. But the shop at city hall is selling copies of the metal
chairs you get in Parisian parks, as well as some nice wooden yachts
like the ones children (and grown-up kids) can rent in the Jardins du Luxembourg and the Tuileries to sail on the ponds.
… A good thing … : the boutique has a great selection of books, which are available on-line
if they’re not in the shop itself. My recommendation would be the very
cheap little volume of photos of the Marais taken in the 1960s and early
1970s. This was before the demolition of the Les Halles market, but
also before the renovation of some buildings that are now looking very
spruce but came perilously close to falling down. It’s all in Le Marais de Roland Liot that costs only €2.85.
… The weirdest souvenirs in the shop have to be the Parisian scented
candles. Now it doesn’t take much cynicism to ask what these candles
should smell of if they want to be authentic. As the author of a book
called A Year in the Merde, I won’t even bother to make the
most obvious suggestion. The Marais candle is said to smell of leather
and wood, reminiscent of the old houses there. Fair enough, though it’s
more of a zingy, zesty, trendy place now. The St Germain des Prés candle
tries to recreate the intellectual atmosphere of the Latin Quarter, not
with red wine, cigarette ash and hot air, but with wood, amber and
vetiver (the last of which does apparently have a smoky fragrance, so it
scores a point for authenticity). However, I can’t understand why
flowers, fruits and vanilla are meant to capture the atmosphere of the
Canal Saint Martin in summer – it’s a prime picnic spot, so ham,
camembert and gherkins would be nearer the mark. And why shouldn’t your
kitchen smell of cheese rather than flowers?
But this is a little cynical dig at what must be a good thing if it
in any way eases local taxes. Turning a chunk of city hall into a
profitable boutique must be good news. The only strange thing about it
is that recently, city hall has been repeating its campaign against
Sunday trading by saying that it doesn’t want the city turned into one
big shopping mall. Admittedly the official Paris shop is only open
Monday to Saturday, but if the city can turn part of its own HQ into a
shopping mall whenever it chooses, can’t some of its citizens do the
same, whenever they choose, and give much-needed work to Parisians
trying to afford their local taxes?